Greenwich-Country mice enjoy their second day

We had been warned on the eve of our holiday that the kitchen at our hotel was having problems and that we would be having breakfast at The Novotel their sister hotel, just a short walk down the Greenwich High Road.  That was fine by us since we liked walking, and I rather enjoyed the walk before breakfast.  On the first day I grabbed a window seat that looked over the road towards the charming early nineteenth century Queen Elizabeth College Alms-houses.

Our post breakfast saunter took us across the street and down Langdale Road, along Circus Street and down Royal Hill where there are a line of just my type of shops: a butcher, a green grocer etc. The standard and displays of goods was so enticing and inviting, and how fortunate for the residents to have this.

We also passed through Gloucester Circus, and down Crooms Hill as I wanted to check on the opening times at the Fan Museum so as to be able to  return to buy myself a fan. It was a treat to admire all the period houses on our walk. I have since found some interesting historic maps showing the development of the area.

Our first planned visit on Saturday was to the Cutty Sark. In the past few years we have enjoyed visiting different sailing ships from The Mary Rose and others in Portsmouth and SS Great Britain in Bristol.  We bought joint tickets for The Cutty Sark and The Royal Observatory. We thoroughly enjoyed looking through the ship at its exhibits and learning about its history. Built as a fast ship for the Tea Trade with China and later bringing Merino wool from Australia, it started it maiden voyage in 1870 and brought back nearly 600,000 Kg of tea.  

A quick walk back to the fan Museum to big my fan, before doubling back to select some nice bakes from Gail's Bakery to fortify us ready for our walk up to the Observatory. Again there was so much history associated with Science and developments which allowed Great Britain to 'rule the waves'.  Sir Christopher Wren's design of The Octagon or Star Room is functional and exquisite at the same time. 

The Time and Longitude Galleries were very well set out, and it was a privilege to get up close and see Harrison's Clocks. I found the history of the site fascinating. 

Harrison's H1 Clock

Marine timekeeper, H1 is the first experimental marine timekeeper made by John Harrison in Barrow-on-Humber between 1730 and 1735 as a first step towards solving the longitude problem and winning the great £20,000 prize offered by the British Government. Known as 'H1', the timekeeper is unaffected by the motion of a ship due to its innovative two interconnected swinging balances. It compensates for changes in temperature and has extensive anti-friction devices, meaning it runs without any lubrication. It was the first relatively successful marine timekeeper of any kind and was the toast of London when Harrison unveiled it in 1735.

On hearing we were to visit Greenwich a friend had lent us 'Longitude' by Dava Sobel.  Mr S read out passages to me.  Inspired by the official prize offered in 1714 to anyone who could solve the problem of finding longitudinal positions at sea, Harrison produced his four famous 'H' timepieces. He helped revolutionise navigation at sea, saving many thousands of lives. The final time piece H4 can be held in the palm of one's hand and was completed in in 1759. 

As if we had not had sufficient interesting visits, time was short, and we decided to walk across the park to Ranger's House as we are members of English Heritage.  The Wernher Collection housed in the Ranger's House is absolutely magnificent, and would really need several visits to take in all the treasures.  Sadly photography is not permitted. English Heritage describes the collection as

' Unique in both its quality and breadth, the Wernher Collection is one of the greatest private collections of art ever assembled in Europe'.

The walks back to the hotel across the park as the light faded was a delight.  The weather was relative mild for November, still and with no rain.  We caught sight of the city across the river light up.  

We had the set menu at Highroad Social, which had a nice evening restaurant vibe with excellent service and good food. 

Country Mice visit London again - First day on a Short Break in Greenwich London

 It is not often that we venture to the Capital least of all stay there. We had been driven through Greenwich once before and remembering the appeal of the area, went and booked our first Coaching  away weekend there with a small local bus company: John Martin Coaches Ltd.  

Our Hotel Ibis was well placed and we enjoyed all our exploring and walks. The first place we visited on our arrival, was The Fan Museum which was just a bloc away.  We were each fascinated in turn by the different cabinets calling each other to view different details.  The Museum is housed over two floors in an early Georgian Building.  The set up and elegance of the Museum reminded me of the larger Tassenmuseum in Amsterdam. 

On the first floor the current special exhibition is called 'A Breeze from Heaven' featuring both English and Dutch fans from the 18th century onwards, such as these, all  with Bible themes.

 Opposite more contemporary fans with The Adam and Eve theme.

We went through the shop as one does, and looked at the merchandise, and there was just one fan which was a little smaller than the fan I usually carry, and would be a better fit for my smaller handbag.  I thought I was just getting shoppyitis and felt strong leaving it.  However in the night it must have been mulling through my head and the following day went back and purchased it.

After the fan Museum we headed to the 17th Century Queen's House.  It is certainly a bright gem on the Greenwich UNESCO World Heritage Site. Even before reaching the house along the Colonnaded Walks linking the House we were totally entranced by the beauty of the architecture . These  Neoclassical colonnades wings and buildings each side of the house were added in the early nineteenth century as part a Seaman's school. 

It is  easy to understand the impact of the Classical Building would have made. Just as the London skyline viewed across the river had on us. This building was completed only 32 years after the death of Elizabeth I.

Every room in the house is hung with the finest of paintings and other art . And this early painting from the Easter Islands by William Hodges who travelled with Captain Cook, really captured our gaze as it was hug above a door we walked through.

This is the not to be missed 'Tulip' stairway, looking down.  Going up and down these stairs when they were new would have been the most thrilling of experiences, similar perhaps to the feeling of using one of those external glass lifts with views to the outside. Something I am yet to do! 

The Architect Inigo Jones who designed the Queen's House had seen such stairs in the Convento della Caritá in Venice. Incorporating these in this ground breaking design of a Royal retreat and entertainment venue was a tour de force. 

The white stone stairs, with each tread resting on the one below were the first self-supporting spiral stairs in Britain and were made by Jones's  mason Nicholas Stone.  Without a central support this would have been the first time people had an unobstructed view up stairs through the centre of a building right up to a skylight. 

It was already getting dark as we made our way back to the hotel and the various shops made for interesting viewing.  After a little rest we ventured out again, walking towards the Cutty Sark and admiring the views across the Thames.  Where to eat the first night?  We walked around and eventually thought  why not taste the very English and traditional Pie and Mash at Goddard's, with a goodly serving of mushy peas, and  a very good apple and blackcurrant crumble and custard large enough to share to finish off.

On evening meanderings along the area we stepped into a specialist chocolate shop: Dark Sugars, a feast for the eyes only this time as none were purchased! I don't eat chocolate....

Luxury chocolates at luxury prices!!!!!

Six on Saturday - 9 November 2024

Autumn is upon us, and I can't quite say winter as we still have not had a frost.  At least it has been drier this week, but absolutely grey with poor light levels.  It is still worth getting out in the garden and finding some sort of activities to get lost in.  From my observations here in the garden are six items, and therefore I shall be linking in with the other SOSers over at Jim's.

1. Ginkgo 'Mariken' is closing down for the winter. 

2. However Corkscrew willow: Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa' pruned during the summer and defoliated, just because I was annoyed by all the caterpillars or grubs that had already nearly done the job for me, bounced back, grew new shoots and is hanging onto its leaves pretty well considering we are in November. 

Salix matsudana 'Tortusoa'

3. There are two patches of Chrysanthemum Hillside Apricot giving a boost of late season colour to the garden.  This Chrysanthemum has proved itself: surviving the wet of the winter and the poor summer this year. This was a gift from my friend Brenda back in November 2021.  There is something appealing about having such a reliable and good hardy chrysanthemum. Even this patch that is not in full sun is doing well.

Chrysanthemum Hillside Apricot

4. I think I have only mentioned this plant once since I first bought it in 2015, despite Fern Athyrium Otophorum v Okanum being a favourite of mine.  Early in the spring, when it emerges with its pale leaves and maroon stems, it is one of my top plants for form and grace at that time of the year..  

Athyrium Otophorum v Okanum

So how come I have singled it out for this week, when its leaves are just starting to die down?  This week I was wondering when to repot it up,  and surprisingly for the first time, looked into how best to look after it.  I found out it likes a good moist soil, and semi shade and that it is clump forming.  How remiss of me, and how tough it must be to have lasted nine years in altogether the wrong conditions! 

I think it might just suit a spot by the bird bath when the Sedum Autumn Joy has been growing.  The sedum now cut back was in too shaded a spot which led to too tall stems.  Whilst thinking about the fern, I inadvertently now need to think of where best to put the sedum.

5. I can't help but propagate, it is like an itch!  If I have a pot of compost, and I see some shoots I feel compelled to try cuttings, as I did on Thursday when I was trimming the Verbena bonariensis.

It is probably rather late in the season to be taking cuttings but there was no material earlier on.  Time will tell whether they root.

Verbena bonariensis cuttings

6. The prostrate Rosemary in the gravel garden is braving the weather, and when dry is a go to plant for the late bumble bees and other insects. How strange that the rosemary flowers this time of the year rather than in the spring or early summer. 

I do hope we get a little sunshine next week, if not just to raise my spirits, and get me back into the garden.  I have some Sternbergias which were a gift from Hilary to plant out in the front garden.